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Rishabh Jain
Managing Director
Vans | Confetti's Verdict ⭐⭐⭐ ½
Confetti Design Studio has analysed the design language, community model and turnaround strategy of Vans, the Southern California footwear brand that turned a canvas deck shoe into one of the most recognisable visual systems in fashion.
It opened in Anaheim on 16 March 1966, when twelve customers chose their shoes on the first day, took them home and paid the next day. Under VF it has since closed around 140 stores in two years and seen its revenue fall by about half. This audit asks whether a brand built by its customers can win them back without discounting, and it is as per October 2026.

Most shoe brands in the 1960s sold through other people’s stores. But Vans did the opposite, and that choice makes the brand stand out even today.
The Van Doren Rubber Company opened in Anaheim on 16 March 1966. It made shoes on the spot and sold them straight to the public.
The shoes were made locally, sold directly and built on trust.
The first product was the #44 deck shoe, now called the Authentic, and skateboarders and BMX riders picked it up through the 1970s.
Selling direct kept the factory close to the customer. That is why many of the brand’s best-known designs came from the people wearing them.

Most shoe brands are known by a logo. Vans is known by a whole set of marks that work together.
A logo can be covered up or copied.
But patterns, stripes, textures and shapes stay recognisable even when the name is missing. Vans built its look over time with one piece at a time.
The waffle sole is the feel of the brand. The side stripe began as a doodle by Paul Van Doren and first appeared on the Old Skool in 1977.
The “Off The Wall” logo arrived in 1976, using a skateboarding phrase about riders launching off the curved walls of empty pools. The checkerboard took off in 1982, when Sean Penn wore it in Fast Times at Ridgemont High.
These marks travel easily. A checkerboard on a sock, a bag or a concert stage says Vans without a single word. Even the wordmark is simple. It began as a bold heel tag on a factory shoe, and the long arm of the V gave it its shape.
Vans protects this look too. In December 2023, a US appeals court upheld an order against the art group MSCHF over its Wavy Baby sneaker. The court pointed to the Old Skool’s black and white colours, side stripe, perforated sole and heel logo. A doodle from the 1970s is now protected property.

Most brands design, and the customer picks. But Vans works the other way round.
Skaters helped shape its best shoes. The Era came out in 1976 and was designed with skaters Tony Alva and Stacy Peralta.
The Half Cab, made with pro skater Steve Caballero, arrived in 1988 as the first signature skate shoe. Even the name came from customers.
People kept calling the shoes “Vans,” and the company became Vans, Inc. in 1991.
The brand keeps this going. Vans Customs lets anyone design their own pair online, like a digital version of the 1966 store.
Vans Custom Culture is a contest for US high school art students. In 2022, Moanalua High School in Honolulu won a $50,000 prize for its art programme, and four other schools won $15,000 each.
People stand up for brands they helped build. Collaborations like Valentino Garavani, now in its second chapter in 2026, bring in other creative voices in the same spirit.


Many brands sponsor an event for a season, pay an athlete to wear the product, then move on when the budget changes.
Vans builds the places where the culture happens.
House of Vans opened in Brooklyn in 2010, and the London venue opened in 2014 in the Old Vic Tunnels under Waterloo station. The London space has an indoor skate park, a cinema, four art studios and a gig space for 850 people. Entry is free five days a week.
And music follows the same pattern. The Vans Warped Tour came back in 2025 for its 30th anniversary, with two-day festivals in Washington DC, Long Beach and Orlando. In 2014, Vans also became title sponsor of the US Open of Surfing.
Vans spends its money on places for the skate scene to gather rather than on ads.
A place keeps working long after it opens. An ad stops working the day the spending stops, but a skatepark or a festival keeps creating stories and first experiences for years.

Vans seems to be starting its recovery in the place it has always been strongest, which is culture.
It is working with Grammy-winning artist SZA is the brand’s artistic director, in a multi-year partnership. She has a real say in how Vans looks and feels, and it already shows. She turned up at Paris Fashion Week in custom Vans, in rooms where a skate shoe rarely goes.
Then there is the collaboration with Netflix’s “KPop Demon Hunters,” a global hit that millions of younger fans love. It puts Vans in front of a new crowd, inside a story they already care about.
Vans now works “social-first,” with content and collaborations leading and the product following & that suits a brand born in skate culture.
The numbers are still catching up. VF expects a small sales decline for the full year, with improvement in the second half. So this is a beginning, and the recovery is not finished.

Vans’ Instagram is organised, and every post has a point of view.
The page looks planned, with clear colours, mood and rhythm from one post to the next.
The shoes get room to breathe. Each pair is framed so you can see the shape, the sole and the small details that make it Vans. It sells without shouting.
The collaborations fit in well. SZA appears as the artist behind the brand’s creative direction, and the K-pop group CORTIS brings in a young, global crowd. They sit inside the same visual world, so they feel like part of the Vans story and not guests passing through.
Skateboarding keeps showing up too. Skaters land tricks, boards hit concrete, and the movement is real. That is the edge that built the brand, and the feed keeps it alive.

The five shoes that built Vans also became its biggest exposure. The Authentic, Era, Old Skool, Slip-On and Sk8-Hi were sold everywhere at every price. And revenue fell from about $4.2 billion in FY2022 to about $2.1 billion in FY2026.
Vans’ sales have dropped by about half in four years & in FY2026 alone, they fell 11%.
Shoe trends moved towards terrace styles like the Adidas Samba and soft, cushioned comfort brands, and Vans had little new to offer.
Some of its newer shoes still feel like a reply to what others started. The Knu Skool brings back a chunky shape. That makes sense for sales, but it does not yet show Vans leading, the way the checkerboard once did.
In the first quarter of fiscal 2027, Vans sales fell 9%. VF expects a small decline of around 4% to 6% for the full year.

Vans got its authority from skaters, musicians and artists who chose it themselves.
SZA is a smart and serious choice, and the 60th anniversary cast mixes her with skaters and punk musicians.
Vans earned its respect from the ground up, starting with skaters and the people around them. Now that big names like SZA are leading the brand, there is a risk it starts to look like it is using fame to seem relevant, instead of earning that standing from the street.
Skaters are quick to notice this. They have spent years watching brands show up in their world only when it suits them, so they can tell when something feels real and when it feels like an ad.

The good news is that Vans is growing in its own stores and website in the Americas. But that is also where the weakness shows.
Sales to other shops are still falling into fiscal 2027, and CEO Bracken Darrell expects them to improve a lot only in the second half.
Those shops decide how Vans is shown to many of its customers. They are careful about ordering more from a brand that has shrunk for four years. Until Vans sells well enough to win them back, the recovery is mostly happening in places the brand controls itself.
There is a second challenge inside the parent company, VF. It sold Supreme in October 2024 and Dickies in November 2025, and cut its debt ratio to 3.1x from 4.1x a year earlier.
Making Vans feel rare again means selling less in the short term, and that can pull sales down before it helps.

Vans needs clearer structure around its icons more than it needs new silhouettes.
The Classics should sit in a well organised architecture.
The core line would have a fair price and a small, steady set of colours. The Premium line would use better materials, building and packaging. The Vault line would sit at the top, rare and made with collaborators.
Each level should look different enough on the shelf that a customer can see what they are paying for. The checkerboard and the black and white Old Skool should always be available and well protected. Everything else should come out in planned, limited releases.
CEO Bracken Darrell has said a Souvenir Asphalt release sold out in thirty minutes. The goal is to make that rarity something Vans plans, and not something that happens by luck.
For founders, this may be the most useful lesson in the Vans story. When a best-selling product ends up on everyone’s feet, the answer is rarely a new best seller. It is usually a better plan around the old one. Levi’s, for example, keeps its classic 501 and builds its premium and vintage lines around it.
Vans’ most unusual strength is that its customers helped write its design. But today that idea sits on the side, in Vans Customs and a school contest.
Confetti would actually put it at the centre. Every flagship store could have a station where customers pick their own fabrics, prints and details. That would bring back the feel of the first Anaheim store in 1966.
The brand could also make small batches of shoes designed by customers, and name the designer on each one. Winners of Custom Culture and local artists should get real space on the shelf and time in campaigns.
This gives Vans something rivals cannot easily copy, which is new ideas from its own customers and its own history.
Vans already knows how to build places where people want to spend time and House of Vans London shows this.
Most Vans stores still look like normal shoe shops. That is where the brand does worst, because it has to compete on price and choice against everyone else.
The next flagship stores should borrow from House of Vans. Where there is space, they could have a small skate area, a wall for local artists, a screen for events and a custom design bar in the middle.
A few better stores run like cultural spaces would do more for the brand than many more shops selling the same classic shoes.
This also suits markets where Vans is still growing, such as India. Many young people there find sneaker culture through friends and events as much as through the shoes.
A House of Vans style space in Mumbai or Bengaluru would show Vans as a culture brand first, which is how it was built.
Vans has one of the strongest brand foundations in consumer products. It started as a factory that sold straight to the people who wore its shoes. That closeness meant customers helped shape its design.
A side stripe that began as a doodle and a checkerboard made famous by a film are now protected assets. House of Vans shows the brand can build culture, and not just pay to borrow it. Few brands, even much older ones, have this much earned respect.
The problem was never a lack of history. The problem was showing too much of it. Selling the same classic shoes everywhere at every price cut revenue from about $4.2 billion to about $2.1 billion in four years.
The turnaround under Bracken Darrell and Sun Choe starts in the right place. It cut discount sales first, before spending on SZA and the 60th anniversary campaign. What Vans needs next is firm rules for how it sells its classic shoes, customer design at the heart of the brand, and stores that feel like House of Vans and not like a regular shoe shop.
If you’re building a shoe or sneaker brand and want your look to be known from one pattern, one stripe or one shape, that’s the kind of branding and packaging work we do at Confetti. Get in touch with our team.
